The Truth About Perms: What to Know Before You Curl

Perms: Then and Now

Let’s get one thing straight—perms aren’t just a thing of the past. While many of us associate perms with big '80s hair or grandma’s weekly salon visits, they’re having a moment again (especially among teen boys). But before you dive into the world of perms, let’s break it down.

A Shocking History

The very first perm machine was invented in 1906 by Carl Ludwig Nestler. It looked like a chandelier with wires and brass rods that hung from the ceiling. To create curls, hair was wrapped around these heated rods, and a chemical solution made from borax paste (and originally even cow urine!) was applied. The process took six hours, smelled awful, and honestly looked like a medieval torture device.

Enter Marjorie Joiner

Fast forward to 1928: Marjorie Joiner, a Black woman and innovator, developed a safer, more compact version that could straighten or curl hair. Her invention paved the way for modern perm methods.

Types of Perms Today

1. Alkaline Perm (Cold Wave)

• Uses ammonium thioglycolate
  
• No heat needed
  
• Creates tight curls
  
  

2. Acid Perm

• Uses glycerol monothioglycolate
  
• Milder, lower pH
  
• Best for soft waves or body
  
  

3. Digital Perm

• Heat + machine-controlled
  
• Popular in Asian salons
  
• Great for coarse, straight hair
  
  

4. Root & Partial Perms

• Add volume just at the roots or front
  
• Perfect for people with uneven curl patterns
  

How Does a Perm Work?

The perm process chemically breaks down disulfide bonds in your hair (the strongest bonds), allowing it to be reshaped around rods or braids. A neutralizer then re-hardens those bonds into the new curl pattern.

Warning: This is serious stuff. Perming is one of the most damaging things you can do to your hair.

Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Get a Perm?

Great Candidates:

• Teenage boys with short, healthy, virgin hair
  
• Anyone with strong, untreated hair
  

Not Ideal:

• If you’ve ever had highlights or bleach
  
• If you’re currently using henna
  
• If you’ve colored your hair within the last year
  

Bonus Tip: Even if you don’t see wave after 3 months, that hair is still "permed" chemically. Tell your stylist!

Are you in the Bay Area? Come see me!

Common Myths + Real Talk

• You can perm bleached hair: Nope. It will melt.
  
• You can DIY a perm: Absolutely not. Please don’t.
  
• A perm will look like a curling iron style: Not even close.
  

Final Thoughts

Perms can be amazing for the right hair and person. But the damage is real, and not every stylist offers them because of how risky they are.

So do your homework, talk to a trusted pro, and make sure it’s the right move for your hair.